My partner and I expect by now that everyone following this series of articles will either be contemplating setting up their own house installation business or wanting to know how to sell the high-priced tools they think they procured before the plaster fell up from the walls, the pipes loaded the kitchen and the wall sections collapsed.
For those of you who’ve by now sign written the truck, congratulations and for those of you completing the “tools for sale” adverts, hang fire, change that pen with a cordless drill and don’t give up easily.
Choosing the suitable base units
Bottom units come in various constructions and are available in flat or rigid formats. Table thickness, construction methods and accessories also highlight between manufacturers. The majority have adjustable legs fitted to ease fitting and reduce water ingress.
Speaking for a former installer, my personal decision for strength and endurance would be to choose a carcass connected with at least 18mm construction along with a back of at least 9mm motherboard thickness and metal on the sides soft close drawer cardboard boxes again with a solid basis of at least 15mm motherboard. Rigid units will save installation time but usually carry no significant advantages over flat pack sections.
Many manufacturers build coordinated carcasses that match their doorstep finishes. This is a valuable advantage when ends are seen, but as an alternative, you can healthy a coordinated end support board or even a door fascia.
Most marketers make no carcasses constructed employing melamine-faced chipboard. In addition, particular care should be fond of the sink base body, which will be highly vulnerable to normal water ingress over its life span. To counteract this problem, I possess developed a product called Unitsaver. I must add that I’m still waiting for the letter from a cabinet manufacturer who sees the product as a beautiful addition to their range. So until then, I’m reluctant it isn’t available to the consumer.
Instruments required for the job
– Wireless screwdriver
– Hand Instruments
– 5mm HSS Drill bit
– 50mm, 25mm, and 30mm, along with 16mm screws
– Set of two clamps
– Spirit level
– Strapping Measure
– Power Drill down
– Compass and pen.
– Safety Equipment – Goggles, Dust Mask and so on
– Extension Lead
The actual fitting
Fitting should begin in the corner of the kitchen area. Starting at the highest justification on the floor, a level line should be transferred to the walls marking the finished height of your cupboards.
Corner cabinets are generally obtainable in two configurations, an L-shaped unit, usually 900mm thickness and a conventional corner pantry, available in sizes from 900mm to 1200mm. If the layout allows, one, the other, or maybe both, will be suitable for your kitchen.
Adjust the lower limbs to ensure the cabinet meets the cloths line and, using a spirit level, adjust to ensure the unit is straight and level. Continue the method with all subsequent devices and clamp them together, ensuring all edges are removed and level.
To connect devices, use clamps within the units to adjoin the actual units, both top and bottom, ensuring that the front and top edges are get rid of. When clamping together, safeguard units using hardboard-away cuts or similar driving the clamp jaws.
Eliminate one screw from each one of the hinge back plates, as well as rotate the back plate to show the area behind. Using a 5mm wood bit, drill throughout the first carcass behind typically the hinge back plate, fixing the two together with some sort of cordless screwdriver using 30mm screws for 18mm devices and 25mm screws intended for 15mm units. Reposition the plate again and fix it. This may serve to conceal the mending. If both devices are connecting on the closing area of the doors, utilize the same procedure and hat the screws.
Where concludes are not visible, it is excellent to cut off the service gap from the bottom of the cabinets leaving behind 80mm of the whole cabinet level from the top of the unit. This can overcome any plastering behind the camp units and provide an easy way of running cables behind the actual units after fitting.
Most manufacturers employ a service without approximately 50mm at the back of foundation units, which is essential not just for plumbing and electric services but also for scribing towards the walls if necessary. To ensure that zero gaps are visible where the last unit typically meets the wall, you may need to scribe the cabinet.
To do this, typically level the cabinet and clamp the idea to the adjacent one making it 30mm proud of the entry edge, clamp the devices together, set the compass to 30mm between notepad and point and work the point of the compass lower the wall keeping that parallel with the pencil level. The pencil line kept on the carcass will behave as a guide for cutting using a jigsaw. After cutting, match the cabinet as referred to above. This will leave an excellent finish to the wall.
While all the cabinets are levelled and in place, they will demand fixing to the walls. This will likely only be required at different gables. Hold a 25mm right-angled bracket to the wall structure and against a gable interior. Mark through the clump with a pencil to the wall structure and drill at a downwards angle. Insert a raw plug and fix it to the wall structure using a 50mm screw. Correct the bracket to the case roof using a 16mm bolt.
An important matter to remember is, when appropriate, a conventional corner cabinet that has an appliance fitted for the return to allow sufficient living space for the door to open 80. and to ensure that the appliance doorstep has clearance to open, not infringing on the door. This may require the appropriate corner fillet created on site, but we will ensure dishes can be placed into a thoroughly open dishwasher.
Remember to straighten up the hob base system with the extractor. This task usually takes precedence over all others for any efficient financial institution operation. It may be necessary to reposition around the corner unit, but this can be corrected by using a new filler on the corner bare.
When fitting integrated devices, you must leave a space between cabinets. Using a straight duration of wood or plinth, clamp flush to the already levelled cabinets and use this as a guide for fitting another cabinet. Make sure you depart the correct space between the products, which applies to the entrance and the back. This method applies when fitting products on either side of a freestanding or range cooker.
Properly that’s it; you’re expecting the worktops; these can be found in various materials, the most used being laminate. In the next content, I’ll explain how to put in your worktops and devices.
Finally, I’d like to offer you some words of confidence for those still discussing whether to call in the closest kitchen installers.
My first installation occurred within the confines of Southport Zoo. I put only a variety of hand applications, a power drill, a second-hand jigsaw and a solid desire to comprehensive my first kitchen somewhat flawlessly about what it had to offer. This I did after several weeks.
It took me so long to complete that they installed a new glass screen for internet surfers to view the monkey installing your kitchen.
So don’t throw in the towel, tend to sell the tools, put on people overalls and give it a different go. It’s so easy a new monkey could do it.
Almost any questions or more information can be located on our popular kitchen customer forum.