The article explains how to attach the outside stop and wastewater connection to the kitchen’s plumbing. The irrigation connection is often done in the basement of a new building. The plug-in used to be outside, typically by the hose bib or the park strip, but times have changed. The most significant benefit of locating the connection outdoors is avoiding water damage inside the house. New home builders install them because they reduce costs. The amount of digging required is reduced.
Advice Before Setup
Never purchase these components from a hardware store like Home Depot or Loews for this application. Their stop and waste are inferior, and it has a bell on top. It’s a useless piece of trash. A legitimate sprinkler or plumbing shop is what you’re looking for. Mueller makes a quality stop and waste for roughly $80. 00. Use brass exclusively. Don’t use galvanized in its place; never combine it with brass. Use a dielectric union to block current if you ever come into contact with a galvanized main line. When galvanized and brass are combined, an electric current can be generated in the pipe. Galvanized main lines are so outdated that they are typically replaced these days. Finally, ensure all threaded connections have at least three layers of Teflon tape.
Things to Get
Materials: stop and waste, brass tee, two six-inch brass nipples, threaded brass elbow, schedule 80 toe nipple, Teflon tape, pvc purple primer, PVC blue glue, reciprocating or hack saw, two pipe and two crescent wrenches, ten feet of 2-inch pipe, two-inch pipe cap, schedule 40 PVC pipe, coupling, gravel, sprinkler key, shovel, railroad pick, and sturdy soled boots. Using a crescent wrench is not required.
Once you locate the primary line, you can determine the appropriate sizes. If you’re unsure what size main line you need, just cut off a section and take it to the hardware shop. Typically, the width of central lines is one inch or three-quarters of an inch.
Access to Water from the Outside
Cooking water, drinking water, or both may be available. The ties are very varied in each scenario. A second green box in the park strip will indicate to most people that they can access secondary water. Call your city hall if you need clarification.
Positioning in the Culinary World, Beyond the Kitchen
The park strip is where you’ll find the water meter. Turn your back on the house and stare at the hose bib. Your house’s water supply will enter the structure using this route. The connection is often placed close to the dwelling. If you stand close to the hose bib, you should be able to anticipate where the water connection will be. But there is a significant disadvantage. In time, the seal will break. Would you like that right next to your home if it did? Positioning it near the water meter is preferable. In case of a leak, your basement won’t be ruined.
Dig
Don’t dig without first dialing 811 (Blue Stakes). You must be careful not to pierce a gas line. The digging can begin in earnest as soon as the land is staked. A shovel with a good edge, a railroad pick, and a good pair of boots are all necessities. The main water line needs to be dug down too. Five to six feet is the typical depth. Some are as deep as 12 feet, while others are only a few feet below the surface. However, it may feel like a long time now; you only need a few hours of focused effort. The correct pipe will typically be copper or galvanized; its diameter will be 3/4 or 1 inch.
Don’t Waste Water!
Turn off the main water supply by calling the city. Then, make sure the water is completely turned off inside the house.
Split Tube
A metal-bladed, reciprocating saw is ideal for slicing through the pipe. Cutting the line will be a quick and easy process. You might also use a pipe cutter or hacksaw. Look at the grooved brass tee and use that as your measuring stick. That is to say; you need to inspect the tee thoroughly to determine how much pipe to remove. This is so obviously correct that you should exercise extreme caution. If that’s not enough, you can always trim further. Don’t contaminate the main supply. You should cover the pipe if you want to keep dirt out. It’s adequate to use a rubberized fabric band.
Set up Brass T-Edge
Tees are inserted by unscrewing their ends. See to it that it is a close fit. Get out your crescent wrench and snug up that tee. While a pipe wrench can be used, it is not suggested because the teeth can leave marks on the fittings.
Put in some nipples of brass.
The stop and waste brass nipples must be installed first. Teflon tape is what you’ll use. Apply Teflon tape to the threads and turn it three times in a clockwise direction (this should be done for any connection that uses lines). After that, using two pipe wrenches, securely fasten the nipples to the stop and waste. Get as close to skin-tight as you dare.
Second, connect a single brass nipple to the tee. Please reapply the Teflon tape. Keep in mind that the stop and garbage signs should not be reversed. An arrow on the device indicates the direction of water flow. To better tighten the nipple into the brass tee, rest your wrench on the stop and waste.
Put in Elbow
You’ve completed the installation of the brass tee, nipples, and waste and stop. Insert your elbow into the last brass nipple. Teflon tape should not be overlooked. The appropriate material for the elbow would be threaded brass. Schedule 40 should never be used, and male adapters should never be used in this setup. It’s not uncommon for male adapters and schedules 40 elbows to break.
Sprinkler Valve Pipe Installation
Join the elbow with a scheduled 80-toe nipple. Bring some Teflon tape, just in case. The Schedule 40 pipe should be glued and primed with sprinkler primer before being attached to the toe nipple. A coupling is also required to join the toe nipple to the PVC pipe leading to the valves.
Put in a 2-inch pipe.
The stop and trash will be topped with a two-inch pipe. The soil will contain it. A sprinkler key can be used to activate and deactivate the system. Schedule 40 tubes can be used by cutting notches in the bottom to accommodate the two-inch pipe placed over the main water line and the stop and waste. A two-inch cap placed over the top of the pipe will keep debris and dirt out. Make the tube more aesthetically pleasing by chopping off its top at ground level. Threads can be seen on the top of some stop and waste valves. Applying adhesive to the coupling after threading a two-inch threaded coupling onto the stop and waste works exceptionally well.
Last Words
It’s best to double-check everything before you bury it. You should avoid having to complete the task twice. Add some gravel to the area around the stop and waste. It will make it less likely to get blocked, and the water will flow more smoothly. Keep the dirt out of the main water supply pipe. Keep the line covered until it can be rejoined immediately after it is cut.
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