This DIY home remodeling and renovation tutorial will explain in depth how to install ceramic wall tile.
For this do-it-yourself task, you will need the following:
Trowel with notches
Mixer for grout
Bucket of a moderate size
Tape Measure and a Straight Pencil
Water-cooled tile-cutting saw
Ear plugs made of ceramic tiles
Ceramic tile is available in a rainbow of colors and a wide range of sizes, from 1 to 18 inches. Most homeowners favor a 4-inch tile on their walls, while 12-inch tiles are the industry standard. Please ensure the wall tile you choose for the tub surround is water-impermeable (water can’t seep through it). Semi-vitreous and impermeable ceramic tiles are water resistant and repel water.
Getting the wall ready for construction
Drywall, water-resistant drywall, plaster, and cement backer board are all suitable substrates for laying ceramic tile. Green drywall or cement board is recommended for usage in wet areas such as a tub surround or a kitchen backsplash. This guide will show you how to install drywall that can withstand moisture.
Remember that cement board is cut like conventional drywall if you plan on using it in your project. Using a utility knife, make a score along the line, bend and snap the drywall, and then remove the backing paper. Since the cement board could become wet, you should use galvanized screws to attach it to the wall studs (which should be about 6 inches apart). To complete the installation, fiberglass tape is used to seal the seams or butt joints, and then a thin coat of thin-set mortar is put over the video.
Emblazoning the stone
It is recommended that the center of two tiles coincide with the location of the shower control, tub spout, and shower head when building a ceramic tile tub surround. The cutting process will be less time-consuming and difficult. Cutting holes in ceramic tile using specialized equipment won’t be as necessary. Remember that the tiles on opposite ends should be around the same size.
Draw level lines in the two dimensions from where you wish to install the tile. Make sure the tile is not lying flush with the upper sides of the tub by measuring carefully before drawing your horizontal line. The tile around the tub may break if it is moved. A tile spacer on either end will keep the tile away from the tub. For clarification, please refer to the image below.
Ceramic tile set up
The shower tile installation should begin in the middle of the shower control and go to the left and right along the bottom line. Apply a coat of pre-mixed tile glue to a space large enough for about two tiles, starting in the center and being careful not to obscure your lines. Make ridges in the bond as you spread it with the notched trowel. For clarification, please refer to the image below.
A technique known as “back buttering” may be used on the tile if it’s more to your liking. The adhesive is applied to the back one tile at a time, and the tile is placed on the wall. For clarification, read on.
Using firm, even pressure, twist each tile into place. For the tile to adhere correctly, it must be moved in this manner. Place tile spacers between each tile as you progress along the horizontal line to ensure uniform grout lines. Proceed from one horizontal line to the next, tiling one section at a time while using spacers to keep the grout line even.
When you reach the corner, you can take measurements and use a wet tile saw to cut the tiles to size. The remaining tiles from the corner cutout will be laid on the next wall. See the examples below.
When you reach a tile that requires a hole cut, measure the distance from the currently placed tile to the obstruction, and then make a note on the ceramic tile at that distance. After you’ve made this mark, you may use your wet tile saw to create a series of little cuts from the tile’s edge to the dot. Use tile nibblers to remove the fragments, then allow the tile to dry. The tile should be ready for setup at this point. Use sandpaper with 80-grit paper to round out any jagged tile edges.
It’s also quite probable that your tile will halt anywhere in the middle of the wall. A finishing strip specifically designed for ceramic tile is required for this installation method. These strips are meant to be adhered to a flat surface in a level fashion. The tile is then glued over the finishing ribbon after being trimmed to size, with the tile’s factory edge resting against the strip.
Do not let the glue lie on the wall for too long if you cannot finish the work in one sitting. Removing the adhesive and nearly impossible to tile this area will be extremely challenging. Excess adhesive should be scraped from the wall with a putty knife.
Putting down tile grout
The tiles can be grouted after the adhesive has had time to cure (usually 24 hours). For clarification, read on.
You’ll need to decide between sanded and un-sanded grout based on the size of your grout lines. If the grout lines between your tiles are more than 1/8 inch apart, you should use sanded grout (which includes sand particles to strengthen the grout connection).
You should remove the spacers and clean up any leftover adhesive before grouting the tiles.
Start mixing the grout by the manufacturer’s instructions. Put two cups of grout in the bucket and gradually add water until the mixture reaches the desired consistency. It must be spreadable, like peanut butter, or thick, like hot oatmeal. The surface of the grout may be seen in the image below.
Remember that grouting in the bathroom or kitchen should always involve a waterproofing chemical.
Apply the grout to the grout lines at a 45-degree angle using a rubber grout float. Make sure the grout fills the spaces between the tiles by pressing it firmly into the grout lines. Cover all the grout lines evenly as you work in an area no more than 3 feet by 3 feet.
After applying all of the grout, brush away the excess at a 45-degree angle to the grout lines using a damp sponge, and then rinse the sponge often in clean water (as demonstrated in the image below). If you don’t want the grout to get on the floor when grouting a wall, you can either lay down a drop cloth or catch it as it falls in a dustpan.
After 30 minutes for the grout to set, give the tile another wipe-down with the sponge. Repeating this process may be necessary to get the grout off the tiles.
Topping off the process
After 24 hours, use a moist rag to remove haze from the grout’s surface. Repeated rinsing of the rag is required until the grout haze disappears from the tile. Using clear, mildew-resistant silicone caulking, seal the edges of the ceramic tile where it meets the counter or the top of the tub if the wall is located in a kitchen or bathroom.
A grout sealer should be applied after about a week. By taking this precaution, you may protect the grout’s beauty against grime and stains.
Thank you for reading our do-it-yourself post, and best of luck with your upcoming remodel!
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