Conventional wisdom according to the correct way to set up kitchen cabinets is through the top down. Guide publications and TV shows will tell you just how to install kitchen cabinets — you’re supposed to start with the actual uppers first.
If you have to, or if you’ve done this prior and feel comfortable with it, stay with it. It works for you.
However, having installed cabinetry for a living for eighteen years (and over 4000 of them), it has not been a good fit for me.
What about doing work from the ground up? What if, and this also is a radical idea in the wonderful world of TV, you install along with leveling the base cabinets rapidly first?
In thinking about tips on installing kitchen cabinets and doing it, I found this to become accessible and much faster. I in no way installed cabinets in any other method.
Leveling cabinets and getting this right is the most challenging component in installing kitchen cupboards. If you find the lowest spot within the room, you can decide if you choose to need to shim cabinets upward or cut them straight down.
It is easier to do this using the bases first. Simply measure up from all those perfectly leveled bases (usually 18″ from the top of the countertop – to allow for today’s coffeemakers and mixers) and set up your uppers.
You can get underneath the uppers and hold them upward (it may be easier for a few to do it this way).
A person worries about scratching the kitchen counter once it’s installed.
An individual worries about dropping an attached gun or another instrument on the cabinets beneath anyone.
You can almost just force the cabinets up to the hall (if you have an 8′ ceiling and 42″ uppers), and you’re done.
In deciding how to mount kitchen cabinets, let’s say anyone discovered you need to shim upwards and cut down (which are what you usually end up doing). At this point, let’s say that you typically installed the uppers first. They are attached to the wall. Do you recognize where those bases are likely to end up? What if you determined it wrong? By the way, I’ve found that performing it this way and figuring out where the bases will end up is more complex and a lot more time-consuming than simply putting the bases within first – why choose a life harder?
If you determine wrong, you might ripple out the uppers you just organized. You have to be careful and not reduce too many off-base cupboards (if need be) to pay if you make a mistake. Dish-washers need so much room from the floor to the countertop. They can be somewhat adjustable, but… suppose? It is easier to cut a number off the top of the upper cabinetry and cover it up using top trim (yes, not anyone is perfect) or rant by having less space (or more) between the countertops and the upper cabinets.
What if you are like many people and have a product garage or something that rests on the countertops? Product garages are often separate items that fit in after the cupboards are installed, but mine were not. I had a custom cupboard shop, and in custom stores, the appliance garage is usually built-in one piece as part of the top cabinet.
If your appliance garage area is built like this, and you set up the uppers first, after which the bases, you will have to destroy the uppers to get the kitchen countertops in, and REINSTALL typically the uppers that it affected. This is a total waste of time.
Okay, let’s say you wish to install the base cabinets initially but are afraid you will decline a screw gun about the cabinets or countertop under you.
There is a simple answer – put blankets along.
If, after installing the bases and countertops, you typically only do this simple thing, you can use the countertop for extra work area and use the bases to help you install the uppers while keeping all of them safe.
I permanently installed the angles first, then the countertop. Then I used a T-JAK to keep up the upper cabinets. Minus one will be carrying out a lot of work; they are worth the investment and will operate you around $70. In case you get handy with them, you can just about install all your cupboards by yourself.
Your local contractor or even dry-waller may have one they can rent or borrow to your account, especially if they are doing some do the job in your home.
If you can’t find one, installing the bases often can still be beneficial. You can use a compact, regular jack or come across help to lift and have those cabinets for you (which you would have to do anyway in the event you were installing the uppers first).
These are just some things to consider when deciding the best way to install kitchen cabinets.
A good amount.
Tape measurer and pencils.
Blankets or other money to meet to protect your floor, and design kitchen countertops and cabinets if necessary.
A drill and proper drill bits.
A bolt gun and appropriate parts.
Screws (may need 1/2″ to 4″, most frequent is 2 1/2″). I used the square drive anchoring screws or combo.
Extension cords.
Button finder.
Ladders
Belt Sander.
Vacuum Cleaner.
3/4″ thick back button 2″ or 3″ considerable lengths of some type of timber, pine strips, or compound board to attach to the leading of bases so you can add countertops from underneath (if installing laminate or reliable surface countertops – should you be installing granite or quartz, you’ll have to beef it up additionally in certain areas – and can need to use 2×4’s).
T-Jak (if you have one available).
Nail gun.
Staple Pistol (to install corner pads or add corner pads if needed).
Small weather compressor (to install major trim and toe conquer with your nail gun).
Process Saw (for top decrease and toe kick) in addition to stand (if you have just one – it makes it easier).
Jig discovered and blades.
Electric escamoter.
Hammer Drill (if doing cement).
Wood putty to help fill in any minor interruptions or holes
Laser amount (if you have one or can borrow one – many people save a lot of time).
Should not be afraid to challenge the usual understanding. You may save yourself a long time of work! Plus, you will still enjoy installing your house cabinets a lot more.
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